For some reason I thought it was much bigger on film or maybe it was John Wayne who made it appear that way. In black and white the “Sands of Iwo Jima” just didn’t have the same appeal as it does here in front of me.
As we approach the way the Marines did back then there are strange rock formations that jetty out of the water, which give an evil and unforgiving feeling. The island looks deserted and for good reason. Nothing is native here anymore and even the vegetation needs help to grow.
Mt Suribachi is on our left as we approach, the Landing craft bobs up and down in the waves like a bad carnival ride as its diesel engine moans. The pork chop shaped island looks neither inviting nor hospitable. The entire surface area of this island is only seven and a half miles of area mass. It’s hard to believe 50,000 men once fought here. The Americans landed on the island but the Japanese were inside it.
Virtually untouched since 1945 this small island once was occupied by over 50,000 men. Out of the original 30,000 men that landed 20,196 American became casualties and 4,189 were killed. The Japanese loses were staggeringly worse, as they nearly fought to last man. Out of the original 23,000 on this island 21,000 were killed, and only 200 surrendered.
There were even two Japanese soldiers who managed to live within the tunnels until finally surrendering in 1949. Four years after the war was over by stealing food and supplies.
The heavy steel door lowers with a crankily sound. In my mind I can imagine the ricocheting bullets that must have been heard as the Marines exited the LCU.
I sink to my ankles in the ash and black sand. I can imagine now what would be like to walk through two feet of pepper. My steps are labored as I reach the end of the beach. As I stop a moment and look down the beach I can see a tank rusty and sticking about halfway out of the sand. It looks surreal.
The island is attempting to reclaim the remnants of the battle but it appears to be just too big to swallow. Maybe it’s too much for such a small island.
There are reinforced fighting positions called pill boxes on the beach and with closer examination there are shell casings littering the ground. The story becomes evident that this is where a Marine took out this position with heavy amounts of fire.
As we approach Mt Suribachi I notice tunnels that I did not see from the beach. They are everywhere on the island. As we approach there is a pillar with Japanese writing to mark its location. This marker is a recent addition, honoring those who died here. The Japanese believe a place that someone dies is sacred and these markings are found everywhere on the island.
Inside the tunnels not much has changed. The name Iwo Jima means Sulfur Island and as you go deeper the heat becomes almost unbearable. White concentrations of sulfur are forming on the tunnel walls.
Everything is as it was in 1945, pictures of Japanese women are posted on the walls and bamboo mats are on the floor. The tunnels are dry from the volcanic heat which helps preserve its contents.
Pieces of Japanese uniforms and shoes are found. Every turn uncovers a new discovery. The rusty and metal barrels of weapons are found but the wood stocks are long gone. We notice colored streamers running throughout some of the tunnels as they mark the areas where human remains are located.
Bottles of rice wine and water purification units seem ready for use and food rations are unspoiled and appear ready to eat.
As we walk the island there are some Japanese making new discoveries. New tunnels are being found every day and some are marked with the original date they were mustard gassed by the Americans and sealed entombing the Japanese soldiers indefinitely.
Many dangers are found here as well and much caution is needed. Japanese grenades are found by some of the entrances and their chemical based fuses are very unstable. Watching where you step and place your hands is a delicate proposition.
The airfield is the only place where any life flourishes. The Americans have given back the island to Japan and the Airfield now reads Iwo To. Still meaning sulfur island Iwo To is the new name for the island as the Japanese try to cover some of the history with the new name.
You won’t find this trip in any travel literature or any honeymoon destination, but for those looking for a step back into time it is worth the trip. The island was bombed for an entire month before the battle and another forty-five days of fighting stripped any vegetation that was originally found here. Over the years however, environmental bombings have taken place with seeds dropped from airplanes to help the island grow back to its natural state.
More than any museum or history book, a trip to Iwo Jima is both breath taking and awe inspiring. From exploring the unseen to standing at the point of that famous flag raising Iwo Jima is among my all time favorite experiences.
As we approach the way the Marines did back then there are strange rock formations that jetty out of the water, which give an evil and unforgiving feeling. The island looks deserted and for good reason. Nothing is native here anymore and even the vegetation needs help to grow.
Mt Suribachi is on our left as we approach, the Landing craft bobs up and down in the waves like a bad carnival ride as its diesel engine moans. The pork chop shaped island looks neither inviting nor hospitable. The entire surface area of this island is only seven and a half miles of area mass. It’s hard to believe 50,000 men once fought here. The Americans landed on the island but the Japanese were inside it.
Virtually untouched since 1945 this small island once was occupied by over 50,000 men. Out of the original 30,000 men that landed 20,196 American became casualties and 4,189 were killed. The Japanese loses were staggeringly worse, as they nearly fought to last man. Out of the original 23,000 on this island 21,000 were killed, and only 200 surrendered.
There were even two Japanese soldiers who managed to live within the tunnels until finally surrendering in 1949. Four years after the war was over by stealing food and supplies.
The heavy steel door lowers with a crankily sound. In my mind I can imagine the ricocheting bullets that must have been heard as the Marines exited the LCU.
I sink to my ankles in the ash and black sand. I can imagine now what would be like to walk through two feet of pepper. My steps are labored as I reach the end of the beach. As I stop a moment and look down the beach I can see a tank rusty and sticking about halfway out of the sand. It looks surreal.
The island is attempting to reclaim the remnants of the battle but it appears to be just too big to swallow. Maybe it’s too much for such a small island.
There are reinforced fighting positions called pill boxes on the beach and with closer examination there are shell casings littering the ground. The story becomes evident that this is where a Marine took out this position with heavy amounts of fire.
As we approach Mt Suribachi I notice tunnels that I did not see from the beach. They are everywhere on the island. As we approach there is a pillar with Japanese writing to mark its location. This marker is a recent addition, honoring those who died here. The Japanese believe a place that someone dies is sacred and these markings are found everywhere on the island.
Inside the tunnels not much has changed. The name Iwo Jima means Sulfur Island and as you go deeper the heat becomes almost unbearable. White concentrations of sulfur are forming on the tunnel walls.
Everything is as it was in 1945, pictures of Japanese women are posted on the walls and bamboo mats are on the floor. The tunnels are dry from the volcanic heat which helps preserve its contents.
Pieces of Japanese uniforms and shoes are found. Every turn uncovers a new discovery. The rusty and metal barrels of weapons are found but the wood stocks are long gone. We notice colored streamers running throughout some of the tunnels as they mark the areas where human remains are located.
Bottles of rice wine and water purification units seem ready for use and food rations are unspoiled and appear ready to eat.
As we walk the island there are some Japanese making new discoveries. New tunnels are being found every day and some are marked with the original date they were mustard gassed by the Americans and sealed entombing the Japanese soldiers indefinitely.
Many dangers are found here as well and much caution is needed. Japanese grenades are found by some of the entrances and their chemical based fuses are very unstable. Watching where you step and place your hands is a delicate proposition.
The airfield is the only place where any life flourishes. The Americans have given back the island to Japan and the Airfield now reads Iwo To. Still meaning sulfur island Iwo To is the new name for the island as the Japanese try to cover some of the history with the new name.
You won’t find this trip in any travel literature or any honeymoon destination, but for those looking for a step back into time it is worth the trip. The island was bombed for an entire month before the battle and another forty-five days of fighting stripped any vegetation that was originally found here. Over the years however, environmental bombings have taken place with seeds dropped from airplanes to help the island grow back to its natural state.
More than any museum or history book, a trip to Iwo Jima is both breath taking and awe inspiring. From exploring the unseen to standing at the point of that famous flag raising Iwo Jima is among my all time favorite experiences.
